Tailored trousers with pleats are, by far, the pants style I wear the most. A fitted, somewhat rigid waistband is usually comfortable for me, but there are times when I feel too bloated for a tight waistband. I wanted a solution that maintains the tailored trousers look while providing flexibility along the waistline. I landed upon a simple hidden drawstring waistband that adds a few centimeters of growing room at the waist.

Similar trouser styles I found online place the drawstring openings at the center front. To eliminate bulk in front, I combined the idea of inserting a drawstring with one of my favorite trouser-making details, internal buttons with shaped fly guards. This meant that I could tie the drawstring off to my left side, essentially giving me an adjustable inner stay.

In this tutorial, I’ll walk through the simple patterns adjustments and trouser construction I completed to achieve a secretly adjustable waistband.

Pattern and Fabric Choice

For the pattern, I used a tried-and-true, self-drafted design featuring a fitted waistband, looser hips and thighs, double pleats, and straight legs. Feel free to try this drawstring addition on any trouser pattern with a fitted waist, such as the Tatjana Trousers, Cass Pants, or Protea Pants.

For the fabric, I used a wool/polyester blend suiting with a bit of spandex. I don’t usually go for stretch suiting, but the whole purpose of this pair was to maximize comfort without compromising the look. I decided that a slight stretch would be perfect. The Altınyıldız brand of suiting fabric was sourced from a local fabric store in Turkey and is unavailable online.

Pattern Adjustments

I didn’t want bunching at the waist when the trousers are worn on their tightest setting, so I avoided adding volume at the waist.…