How to Form Slotted Seams

August 17th, 2009 in sewing, tips & tricks, garment construction

LOUISE CUTTING, contributor

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Place the underlay over the seam allowances on the wrong side. Fuse it to the seam allowances.

Learn how to create slotted seams.

Photo: Louise Cutting

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You can make a slot seam on any seam line straight enough to make a smooth curve without clipping. Use it for a fine tailored seam and a handsome accent.

First, cut an underlay strip the length of the seam and the width of the 2 seam allowances. Cut it on either the lengthwise or crosswise grains. But I prefer to cut the underlay strips on the bias for added ease in body movement and because the bias lays flatter under curved and shaped seams.

To sew a simple slotted seam:

1. With right sides together, baste the two edges along the seamline and press the seam open. You can baste with your sewing machine set at the longest stitch.

2. On the right side of the underlay strip, press a length of 1/4 inch wide Steam-a-Seam fusible tape along both long raw edges.

3. Remove the backing paper and position the strip right side down over the seam allowances so the raw edges of the strip and the raw edges of the seam allowances match. Press into place.

4. Serge along the raw edges. Be sure to move the ‘body’ of the fashion fabric away so it doesn't get caught.

5. From the right side, top stitch a presser foot distance away from the basted seam. Remove the basting and press.

As the garment moves on the body the contrasting underlay of fabric can peak out for interest.

As an accent, instead of using a straight stitch a presser foot away, try a decorative stitch for interest or pull back the folded edge of the slot about every inch and secure it with a seed bead.

posted in: sewing, tips & tricks, garment construction

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Comments (11)

homeecteacher writes: I love decorative techniques. Haute couture uses things like this and we can copy for a fraction of the price! Posted: 6:47 pm on November 20th

grnthumb30 writes: Very neat trick. Might be nice between a yoke and skirt for my toddler with the beads, or maybe buttons, for an accent as she mentioned. Posted: 9:51 pm on November 13th

island_girl writes: It's always nice to learn different ways to add interest to a garment. It's even nicer when it a familiar method. Adding the underlay strip is done almost exactly the way I learned to add a zipper, how great is that?! Posted: 2:01 am on October 16th

TheSewingChic writes: Good instructions and pictures - makes perfect sense to me after glancing over and I will be giving the technique a go soon.

Now ladies - we are supposed to be creative people - why are we asking what pattern to use?? The sky is the limit!! I'm thinking it would look really great on some type of tailored tote or even a decorative pillow, too - just rows of seams for decorative purposes to create eye appeal and texture. Posted: 4:57 pm on August 30th

CaitySue writes: OK...at first I felt SO stupid, but I read the instructions several times over and now I think I understand it! More pictures would have helped me as I learn by seeing more than reading. I think it's part of the aging process that we don't absorb all we read the first time or two through anymore. Posted: 6:15 pm on August 26th

Manette writes: I too would like to see a finished garmet with this technique used. Of the suggestion of a pattern to use it on. Posted: 10:01 am on August 25th

BarbaraSki writes: Normandie: The "zig-zag" you see is the serging that you do on the edge of the backing fabric and raw seam allowances of the garment as called for in Step 4.
This technique looks great on a straight/a-line skirt. One pattern I have that uses this is Fashion Sewing Group (Nancy Erickson) skirt. Posted: 9:25 am on August 25th

Normandie writes: I am a bit confused about Step 5 as the directions say to top stitch away from the basted seam. No problem with that, however, the picture shows that the wrong side seam edges finished with a zig-zag stitch. I assume that the next step (5a perhaps?) would be that after the right top stitching has been sewn and pressed then the seam edges are finished as the picture shows? For sure slotted seams can be incorporated into a lot of tailored it certainly give a very chic look and and perhaps for less formal styles maybe if the backing is a contrasting plain colour or patterned material. Posted: 4:27 am on August 25th

jansquires writes: I learn by doing. You'll have to show this technique at our October Retreat. Which pattern would I use this on? Posted: 12:54 am on August 25th

cherylzone writes: I'd love to see a photo of a garment illustrating this technique.....anyone? Posted: 9:26 pm on August 24th

Simple_Simon writes: I love sewing but I hardly have time anymore. If I could I would sew all day. I love creating new thing. Posted: 8:54 am on August 24th

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