Not Your Traditional Patch Pocket
November 2nd, 2009 in sewing, tips & tricks, garment construction, fundamentals
LOUISE CUTTING, contributor
44 users recommend
The key to sewing a very flat patch pocket is where you place the interfacing and how the fabric is folded and sewn. Here's how to do it:
1. Make 1/8 inch deep clips into the seam allowances to mark the pocket facing fold.
2. Cut the interfacing 1 1/2 inch x the width of the pocket, less the 5/8 inch seam allowance on both vertical sides. Place the top edge of the interfacing on the wrong side of the pocket at the top fold line. Serge the top raw edge of the pocket facing. Staystitch around the pocket 5/8 inch from the raw edges.
3. Fold the pocket facing to the wrong side at the clips. Slide a strip of Fine Fusing Tape or Steam-A-Seam under the pocket facing edge and press lightly. Remove the paper backing and press to fuse the pocket facing in place.
4. Topstitch across the Pocket 1” below the folded top edge. View from right side of Pocket.
5. Press the seam allowances to the wrong side, favoring the staystitching slightly to the wrong side so it isn't seen from the right side. Lay strips of Steam-A-Seam on the folded seam allowances. Press lightly. Remove the paper backing. 
For close up view of top pocket edge. 
6. Place the pocket on a front, matching the dot on the garment. Be sure the edge of the pocket is parallel to the grain line of the garment fabric. Check all four edges of the pocket to make sure it runs along the weave in the garment fabric. Examine the top corners of the pocket. If any seam allowances or stray threads are peeking out, tuck them down below the pocket's top edge. Press the pocket to fuse it in place. 
7. Edgestitch the pocket. Place the garment in the sewing machine with the pocket top toward you. Leave a long thread tails, insert the needle where the horizontal topstitching from stitching the facing meets the pocket edge. Measure along the top edge 1/2 inch from the top pocket corner and place a pin. Begin stitching diagonally toward the pin. At the top edge, pivot and stitch to the corner, counting your stitches. Pivot at the corner and continue edgestitching around the pocket. After you've stitched around the pocket and arrive at the remaining top corner, stitch across the top edge the same number of stitches that you counted on the first corner. Pivot and stitch diagonally to the point where the horizontal topstitching meets the edge of the pocket, leaving long thread tails. Your second corner should mirror the first corner. Pull the thread tails to the wrong side and tie them off.
Panties Sewing Pattern
sewinl0ve | September 23rd, 2009
Kidnap the Sandy Claws: Lock, Shock and Berrel
mymimila | October 29th, 2009
How to Cover Snaps for that Touch of Couture
Mary Ray | October 19th, 2009
Spanish Senoritas Apron - Gotta Love that Fabric!!
ApronOfTheMonthClub | September 5th, 2009
Shirtmaking Techniques DVDA video guide to sewing custom-made shirts
2009 Threads Magazine Archive DVD-ROM146 Issues of Threads on a single disc
Easy Guide to SewingHow to sew tops and T-shirts, skirts, and pants
Comments (3)
iceni writes: HI I love all the wonderful tips that the experts and other sewers give, But OH!OH! I shudder at the sexual content of your esteemed website. I am talking about THE TERMS MALE AND FEMALE!.
Excuuuuuuse meeeee.Who would fail to see the pornigraphic conotations of the piece with a ball, and the other piece coyly called the female piece, with one fitting in to the other. I am shocked! Please put a warning at the top of the page regarding sexual content!
Seriously though, aren't these terms a little sexist and outdated? How about the 'prong bit fited into the prong case? Oh I don't know. It's the same thing when you talk to an electrician or a mechanic. what devious mind started this in the first place. (By the way I say all this tongue in cheek) I love your magazine. Posted: 11:21 am on November 10th Posted: 12:34 pm on November 10th